Playing Catch-Up

Be warned...this will be long. Internet access is lacking, but I have been writing in my journal - this is just a typed out version of that.

Enroute to Chaing Khan - Bus
I did what all great travelers do, I bought a cheap guitar. It was a stupid and impulsive purchase but one I can't force myself to regret. Granted Woody and Bob never rode in the back of an air-conditioned bus but I am a traveling minstrel now.

Today was a day of vices, I had an incredible breakfast in a small cafe, in an alley off of a side road in Chaing Mai. I had my first Thai massage (or Thai beatdown depending on how you see it). In my euphoric state of poor judgement I walked into a music shop and just bought the guitar. I didn't want it, but I needed it. I am getting carsick....more later.

Chaing Khan
We arrived in Chaing Khan and found our guest house situated along the Mekong. Despite the murky nature of the water, the sight was simply breathtaking (cliche...I know). Me and Ritchie pulled out our guitars, both deciding that if we were sitting on the delta, any delta, the blues were in order. We are both very white. Case in point. We made our way to dinner on the other side of town and grabbed dinner. Our last night in Thailand required some cheers. I danced like a retard, with Collete, an Irish corporate attorney with a good sense of Irish wit, I had profound religious conversations with Jenny, one of my new favorites, and laughed my ass off when one of our fellow travelers dropped his lens cap down the sewer and had half of the city lifting cinder blocks to get it out. The kindness and generosity of the Thai was at it's best in that moment. The night ended with yours truly making his best attempt to open a broken window and shattering it entirely. (Only in Thailand do you tell the receptionist and not only doesn't she charge you but profoundly apologizes).


The next morning we made our way down to the river, first stopping at the Thai passport check. We took a glorified row boat with a motor attached across to Laos. Upon arriving you could already feel a different energy. There is afeeling about Laos that is indescribable. It is undiscovered. My last tour guide AJ said "You want to see Thailand fifty years ago, you go Laos". After making it through customs and exchanging some moneyt we took tacis to our boat that would bring us to our overnight stay in Bak Beng. The ride was amazing, and while I have found for many it is no more than a means of getting from point A to point B the boat trip is a highlight for me. The boat belongs to a family, there is a newborn girl that they allowed me to hold. She sleeps quietly, frequently smiles and rarely cries. She is beautiful. I wonder how they look at their children, future doctors, and lawyers, or fisherman and craftsmen?

Traveling along the Mekong I have seen beauty and serenity I have never experienced. In the US, even in the most remote parts there will usually be a sign, or a building to break the landscape. In Laos the greatest signs of civilization are huts and farms in the mountains, or fishing nets along the river. It is a country that has only been open to touring for a few years and while there is certainly an impact from tourism, it is minimal compared to Thailand.

I finished one book, and made it half-way through another, sunbathed, talked more religion to Jenny, played more music with Ritchie, and used some acrobats and bravery to make it to the front of the boat where I was alone.

Bak Beng
Bak Beng is a small town along the river. It has reinvented itself for tourists with one major resort and several guest houses. Most electricity is run on generators and only works from 6pm to 10pm. I anticipated a rather sweaty sleep and a cold shower in the morning. No complaints - it is all in the name of adventure. The group decided to go to an Indian restaurant in town but Ritchie and I decided an authentic Laos meal was in order. At the advice of our day guide we went to a small restaurant. For six dollars we ate like kings. The restaurant was humble, and the columns to the entrance were two old American bombs. Laos was bombed millions of times during the Vietnam war, and this served as a painful reminder of the scars we left behind. I drank some Laos whiskey which qualified as the harshest alcohol I have ever tasted. It burned my mouth, my throat, my stomach, and then made its way back to burn anything it missed in the form of acid reflux.

I went to bed early as to enjoy the last few minutes of the fan, and in order to wake up early.

We awoke to the sound of a rooster crowing in a nearby farm. This is both the best and worst way to wake up in the morning. We headed to the morning market and we were able to watch the monks collecting alms in the morning. Monks will eat one meal a day, and it is only what is given to them by the villagers. The market was unlike any we had seen thus far. It was not built for tourists, but for the people of the village. The smell of fresh coriander, and the sight of freshly slaughtered cows were overwhelming to the senses, and good perspective of the everyday lives of people in Laos.

We boarded our boat again for eight hours as we made our way to Laung Prabang.

Caves

We made quick stop to ancient caves which house four thousand statues of Buddha. We climbed the stairs in the pouring rain as the local children hid under the rock overhangs. We are warriors for Buddha!!

Luang Prabang
We arrived into Laung Prabang, went out for dinner, did some shopping, and ended up at a Laos only discotheque. A totally bizarre experience. Think 1950 catholic school dance with Laos rock music. Hilarious.

Luang Prabang - enroute to waterfalls
I am writing this on the back of a songtail (essentially a pick-up truck with seats). My handwriting is a mess, I am getting sick, but I must write. I cried. I cried in front of a woman I barely knew. I was in a western cafe (which our tour guide brings us to frequently, and drives those seeking authenticity absolutely insane), I saw a sign that this cafe supported local workers, gave them job training, and high pay as a means of avoiding drugs and prostitution...this made the lack of authenticity and bad bagels worth it. I began to speak with the store manager, a powerful looking woman from phili with striking white hair and a shirt to match. She told me that they had put together a boarding house for girls who work in the store. She also told me that she herself started a day care for the children, providing the kids with Montessori education, and introducing good nutrition. My face lit up at the sound of a daycare, and since we had a free day I asked if I could come in and volunteer. She told me that she no longer allowed western guests because she once allowed a doctor to come visit who turned out to be a pedophile. I cried, I had no control. I was ashamed. Maybe as a westerner, maybe as a future doctor. She told me that no kids were harmed. Thank God.

Laung Prabang - Returning from the waterfalls
From the lowest of the low to the highest of the high. Our trip to the waterfall qualifies as one the the greatest moments of my life. I am overwhelmed and humbled by them. There are moments in your life that are totally indescribable, maybe Hemingway could do it, but he just gets too wordy for me. So I will keep it at "incredible" and let you see the pictures. I overcame my fear of heights, and jumped off of a branch fifteen feet above the bed of the waterfall. I did not however overcome my ability to scream like a little bitch.

I found out that watching a Laos ceremony called Baci is a must. Thank you Lonely Planet. The Royal Ballet usually performs one but it was canceled for tonight. I spoke with our local guide, Lam, and he was able to arrange for a group of people to perform one for us. I was able to get the entire travel group on board, even for the high fee of $150 (I'm not being sarcastic, that is a shit load of money here).

We went into town for a bit to book day trips, and returned to the hotel to meet Lam. He walked us across the street to a restaurant, where we headed to the back. We found small stage adorned with carpets, where we removed our shoes and sat. In front of us was ten elders, and a large ceremonial piece covered in flowers, string, and sweets. These people had the most wonderful smiles, so wonderful that their missing teeth didn't even seem out of place. Lam explained the ceremony, and it was then begun with a prayer. The elders came around, and took the string from the ceremonial piece and tied it on our wrists. Ten on each wrist in total. It was nice to have them tie it, because in that moment there was a personal connection. The last for me was the oldest man of the bunch whose spirit and warmth I can only hope to carry when I am his age. The ceremony is intended for someone beginning a journey, or a new chapter in their life as means of balancing the spirit world with the physical. With this next year quickly approaching this was especially meaningful. Finally, the floral arrangement was presented to a guest of honor, which the group chose me as a delegate for since I organized it. I am supposed to bring it to a temple to present as a gift. In the meantime it is sitting next to the TV in my hotel room, serving as a bizarre paradox.

Bust enroute to Vang Vieng from Luang Prabang
Maybe it is because I'm sadistic or maybe its because I truly enjoy it but I subjected myself to another trek yesterday. We left the city early in the morning and made it to our base camp, and elephant park. The trek began with a less than challenging walk along a frequently visited road (as told by the ATV tracks). We arrived at a village, and ate lunch with the elder, and I pulled out one of the two loaves of sweet bread I had bought earlier in the morning. They were appreciative of the gesture. We left the village after lunch for what I expected to be another casual hike. This, obviously, would prove to be misguided. It had appeared that the shrub along the trail had not been cut for several weeks, and considering the speed at which the green grows we were hiking on a six inch wide trail ducking to avoid thorn brush. The insanity was only compounded with the fact that just as we began to climb the most vertical portion of the trek monsoon season kindly kicked in. So rather than a six inch trail he hiked along a six inch stream that was a slippery and wet mess. Going down was far more intense than going up and by the end I was covered in scratches, bruises and lots of mud. It was well worth it. We made our way to a home in the middle of nowhere and then a bit more to our final village. There was no intention of stopping here as we had already been running late, but as we approached the dock it became clear that there was no boat to meet us. Now I swear to you that cellphone service is accessible everywhere, it is insane that I can't get service in my apartment but in a remote mountain outside a small city in a small country it is crystal clear reception. This, however, was not the case in this particular village and our guide was forced to leave us to find a boat. This gave me ample opportunity to nurse my sore knee. As we sat there the children of the village began surround us. I pulled out the second loaf of sweet bread and began to share with them. They swarmed me and I handed out piece after piece - each getting a touch smaller as to make sure each child had seconds and thirds. I began taking pictures of them and showing them the results on my screen. They freaked! Laughter smiles, everything you could hope to see in children living in such squalor. I moved from photos to videos and the joy on their faces was incredible. I grew bored of this and put them on my feet and grabbed there wrists. I swung them high into the air as they laughed, smiled, and clamored for another ride. There boat finally arrived just as my legs were growing numb. This did not end up serving as a proper rest for my knee, but it was good for my soul so I think its a pretty fair trade off. We took the boat to see waterfalls, which were aesthetically incredible, and provided a much needed wash up. Our trip came to an end and we headed back into town for a much needed massage. I had a full body massage, a steam herbal rub and mani/pedi (shut up....don't say anything) for twenty dollars. It is a rough life I have.

This morning I write you in a small village two hours away from Luang Prabang. The breaks of our bus have died and we must wait two hours for a new one to arrive. This is Laos time which means three hours, at least.

Later
We are on a new bus, thank God we didn't take the old one. If you think route 1 in california is bad try the road from LP to VV. Two feet from the cliff with no divider. I have spent the entire trip planning my survival tactic if the bus flipped. I committed to a plan in which I will place my body in the window and allow the bus to flip over me. I saw it in a cartoon once. This of course requires me to keep the window open for the entirety of the trip but for the sake of my life I suffer.

Later than later
I arrived in VV, I am in an internet cafe writing way too much, and not spell checking or rereading. Much love to everyone who made it this far!