Ok I get it, I can't spell. This is what happens when you grow up with spell check and cliff notes. I spelled tattoos wrong, and then I wrote spelt instead of spelled while correcting myself....yes I get the irony, its more depressing than funny. 20 years of private school education and I would fail a fifth grade spelling test.
I miss my last group miserably. I need to change my mentality for this next part of my tour - it will be 29 more days. Everyone was young, and fun. I have two retired women on this trip, and a few more bitter ones. Luckily I have Ritchie, he is a 22 year old brit, just graduated from music school, and will be teaching music in the fall. He brought a guitar, he is my new best friend.
I left the last group in Bangkok at the Trang Hotel, and moved across town to meet the new one at the Royal. Liz, from the last trip, agreed to ship some of my stuff home when she got back to California - Liz is my personal saviour. (besides that she also got me through the elephant ride without crying like a bitch - she is a good soul) When I arrived I found out that I would have to start sharing a room. I valued the privacy, another adjustment. When I saw the guitar on the bed I was a little relieved. My new tour guide was quite different than my old one, she is an Australian who I suspect had been editor of her highschool newspaper. Either you get it or you don't. I knew things would be different when we all agreed to go out for dinner. Kim, the tour guide made the reservation, we got there and I thought I was in Scottsdale. It was the first time I felt like I wasn't in Bangkok, luckily Ritchie felt the same way. We ate and quickly left the group, and made our way to Kouson Road, the main tourist spot in Bangkok, think Picadilly Circus, meets Ben Yehuda street, meets crack. We found a bar, and after forty minutes I realized it was the same place I had been the night before with my other group. Yes, I was that drunk the night before. Between the two of us we polished off some rum (2 pints...yes some) and thanked the heavens that we found each other. Ritchie met up with some friends he had made the night before and we went to a knew bar. I decided it was time for me to go home, since it was 1 am, and it was supposed to be a relaxing day. I left the group to continue the debauchery without me.
On my way home I saw some hebrew writing, Thailand is frequented by Israeli tourists, in fact the computer I am writing on now has small hebrew letters taped to the key pad. Amazing. We are everywhere. I found an Israeli bar and made my way in. I spoke to someone for about an hour, where we discussed absolutely nothing but how much a certain brand of Israelis suck (arsim). A total waste of a conversation. I found the hotel and went to sleep.
The next morning I awoke to take the canal tour I had already taken - but I like water and it was relaxing, and included in the price of the trip. Me and Ritchie left through group and a kid named Kason tagged along. We got some food and headed for a meditation class. I had been wanting to go to this class since I got here, and it was nice to find someone to go with me. We twisted and turned through a temple, and came upon a very western office, with leather chairs and flat screened computers. The only difference was, rather than sporting suits, the workers wore saffron robes, and shaved heads. Brilliant contrast. The monks walked us to a backroom, where we were taught meditation for about an hour. I was more clear minded than I had been in the past few days. I needed that. This is the Thailand I came to visit.
We packed our bags and took the train to Chaing Mai, the sleeper train is one thing, but the train with no electricity and air conditioning is a whole other thing. There had been a short on our car. Lets just say I smelled slightly homeless after the ride. I spent the rest of the day in a Thai cooking class where I managed to splash oil all over my now bright red wrist. I did make some excellent fish curry though.
The rest of this trip will be different, but maybe its a good thing, maybe I need to see outside of it. Maybe I don't need to be hanging out with 19 year olds. Maybe I need more time for myself. Maybe I just need to stop overthinking everything.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Sunday, June 22, 2008
tatToos
I spelt Tattoos wrong in the last post - before someone corrects me, I would like to correct myself. Thats how I do, pre-emptive attacks.
I came as close to getting a tattoos as I ever will. It is a buddhist custom to be tattooed by monks. Many people here are covered in these trademark tattoos, they are beautiful and simple and are believed to give luck or magic to those who get them. My traveling buddy Renee has wanted one for a long time, did her research and found her place. Infact our tour leader, AJ, was surprised and almost upset that she was able to find it, as though she just learned the masonic handshake. The temple was 50 km out of Bangkok, unlike Chaing Mai where the temples are interspersed throughout the city, this was in a small rural village. Two of my favorite girls, Sommer, and Michelle, both from Toronto with accents to suit them, joined us for the adventure. We were driven by a wonderful Thai man named Tony, who may have been wonderful because our ride probably paid for this months rent. (It turned out Tony was wonderful, and took very good care of Renee - he was compassionate, and paternal). After a touch of getting lost we managed to find the temple. We met with a monk who blessed us and rubbed gold foil on our foreheads....he also rubbed it on the girls tongues, but not mine. Dirty, dirty monk. We went to another building to find the tattoo parlor. Lets just say the sanitation levels in the Thai temple are not quite the standards we see in American parlors. There are no rubber gloves, disposable needles, or antiseptics there is only a monk seated on the floor, slightly higher than those sitting below him, a long needle and ink. The room was musty and dim, on the floor sat fifty or so people waiting their turns. The tattoos were quick, and those getting them showed little expression. After some waiting Renee's turn came. While it is tradition to allow the monks to choose the tattoo Renee decided on a specific one. A large tiger. The monk giggled a bit and prepared Renee. As it would turn out the reason the tattoos took so quick was they were small letters, the one she chose would take over an hour of the monk slowly stabbing her with this needle. She was strong, but did not lack expression on her face. She was hunched over a pillow, sitting indian style clenching her teeth, her eyes, and the pillow with all of her strength. At one point she held my hand and my my mind began to run with "if she squeezes any harder I will never be a surgeon...family practice, family practice, family practice." The piece came out amazing, better than the picture she chose from, it was elegant, perfectly sized, and fit her so well it looked as though she may have been born with it. We returned to Bangkok, joined up with some more people, and got some lunch. I left the group and walked through Bangkok alone, which is a much different experience, one I suspect I may be privvy to for the next few days as I change groups and find my place in the new one.
I am worried about changing groups, while I haven't spoke much of my traveling companions in my writing but they are a wonderful group. We are each so different, from so many countries, but there is no ego between any of us. A rare thing when in a large group. I know I may never see most of them again, but they have been wonderful to travel with.
Mom and Dad this is where you stop reading.....
Bangkok is not only famous for temples and spirituality, it is impossible to ignore the glare of the red light as you walk around every part of this city. From cab drivers asking me if I "would like massage later" with a wink, to large storefronts with women sitting outside as though they are produce. My father said "don't spend your money on souvenirs, walk past the 'stuff' but don't miss out on an experience". Well I am always...ALWAYS...one to take my fathers advice. No I didn't sleep, or even touch, one but along with a group of five people I went to what is commonly referred to as the "ping-pong" show. One does require a great amount of creativity to imagine where the ping-pong ball goes - but lets just say getting it out took a lot of skill, and with such distance and grace. After being completely traumatized, especially once realizing that one of the girls didn't start out as one, we headed to Kauson Rd. which is party central to meet our Irish friends at an Irish bar called Shamrock. I found some falafel...which sucked, even for drunk food. I took one of our friends home and called it a night. I have made the decision to miss out on some experiences.
I came as close to getting a tattoos as I ever will. It is a buddhist custom to be tattooed by monks. Many people here are covered in these trademark tattoos, they are beautiful and simple and are believed to give luck or magic to those who get them. My traveling buddy Renee has wanted one for a long time, did her research and found her place. Infact our tour leader, AJ, was surprised and almost upset that she was able to find it, as though she just learned the masonic handshake. The temple was 50 km out of Bangkok, unlike Chaing Mai where the temples are interspersed throughout the city, this was in a small rural village. Two of my favorite girls, Sommer, and Michelle, both from Toronto with accents to suit them, joined us for the adventure. We were driven by a wonderful Thai man named Tony, who may have been wonderful because our ride probably paid for this months rent. (It turned out Tony was wonderful, and took very good care of Renee - he was compassionate, and paternal). After a touch of getting lost we managed to find the temple. We met with a monk who blessed us and rubbed gold foil on our foreheads....he also rubbed it on the girls tongues, but not mine. Dirty, dirty monk. We went to another building to find the tattoo parlor. Lets just say the sanitation levels in the Thai temple are not quite the standards we see in American parlors. There are no rubber gloves, disposable needles, or antiseptics there is only a monk seated on the floor, slightly higher than those sitting below him, a long needle and ink. The room was musty and dim, on the floor sat fifty or so people waiting their turns. The tattoos were quick, and those getting them showed little expression. After some waiting Renee's turn came. While it is tradition to allow the monks to choose the tattoo Renee decided on a specific one. A large tiger. The monk giggled a bit and prepared Renee. As it would turn out the reason the tattoos took so quick was they were small letters, the one she chose would take over an hour of the monk slowly stabbing her with this needle. She was strong, but did not lack expression on her face. She was hunched over a pillow, sitting indian style clenching her teeth, her eyes, and the pillow with all of her strength. At one point she held my hand and my my mind began to run with "if she squeezes any harder I will never be a surgeon...family practice, family practice, family practice." The piece came out amazing, better than the picture she chose from, it was elegant, perfectly sized, and fit her so well it looked as though she may have been born with it. We returned to Bangkok, joined up with some more people, and got some lunch. I left the group and walked through Bangkok alone, which is a much different experience, one I suspect I may be privvy to for the next few days as I change groups and find my place in the new one.
I am worried about changing groups, while I haven't spoke much of my traveling companions in my writing but they are a wonderful group. We are each so different, from so many countries, but there is no ego between any of us. A rare thing when in a large group. I know I may never see most of them again, but they have been wonderful to travel with.
Mom and Dad this is where you stop reading.....
Bangkok is not only famous for temples and spirituality, it is impossible to ignore the glare of the red light as you walk around every part of this city. From cab drivers asking me if I "would like massage later" with a wink, to large storefronts with women sitting outside as though they are produce. My father said "don't spend your money on souvenirs, walk past the 'stuff' but don't miss out on an experience". Well I am always...ALWAYS...one to take my fathers advice. No I didn't sleep, or even touch, one but along with a group of five people I went to what is commonly referred to as the "ping-pong" show. One does require a great amount of creativity to imagine where the ping-pong ball goes - but lets just say getting it out took a lot of skill, and with such distance and grace. After being completely traumatized, especially once realizing that one of the girls didn't start out as one, we headed to Kauson Rd. which is party central to meet our Irish friends at an Irish bar called Shamrock. I found some falafel...which sucked, even for drunk food. I took one of our friends home and called it a night. I have made the decision to miss out on some experiences.
School Yard Fights and Tatoos
Chaing Mai
I remember when I was 16. I was getting in to fights. I just didn't think I could do it with thirty screaming Thai gentlemen betting on me at midnight on a Thursday night. Muy Thai boxing is a force to be reckoned with. These guys are tough and can take a beating. We went to a run down warehouse or "stadium" as it is undeservedly called to watch a match. It was incredible. The champ of the night was a white guy from New Zealand, which I am sure gave the Thais there a huge sense of pride. The hunger, and heart of these guys was amazing, to fight in such conditions for the hope of recognition, or honor is a far cry from the glitz and glamour of the Las Vegas fights we watch everyday.
I spent the rest of the night planning the following day in Chaing Mai, as we had free time. I had a large group coming with me that all bailed when they awoke to their Muy Thai boxing hangovers. It was me and my new friend Renee, who is an adorable girl, with a good sense of her spirituality. If only she wasn't 19. Together we explored the temples of Chaing Mai. Chaing Mai is known for its temples which are interspersed throughout the city. We managed to make it to three separate ones, the names escape me, but there were awe inspiring. All in the name of Buddha. We found a restaurant that had been listed in Lonely Planet, it was next to one of the larger temples, and was easily the best food I have had here yet, and certainly qualifies as one of the best meals of my life. We had a papaya salad, that was spicy, sweet, and covered in peanuts. So many flavors, so incredible. Later in the afternoon me and Renee decided to get adventurous and try a street drink. We ordered watermelon. The woman furiously threw about twelve things into a cup, with each scoop of mystery ingredients mine and Renee's gasps got loader and more intense. When it was finished with a scoop of what appeared to be brown water, the look between us was priceless. Needless to say we each took a sip, and threw it out for fear of Montezuma's first cousin Khan from Thailand taking revenge on us.
The day was finished by boarding our night train back to Chaing Mai, I slept better this time - it may have had something to do with the 80 proof bottle of rum I drank.
My time is running out on here, and I am paying hotel prices.....the tattoo story will have to come later (don't worry Mom, it's not my tattoo.
I remember when I was 16. I was getting in to fights. I just didn't think I could do it with thirty screaming Thai gentlemen betting on me at midnight on a Thursday night. Muy Thai boxing is a force to be reckoned with. These guys are tough and can take a beating. We went to a run down warehouse or "stadium" as it is undeservedly called to watch a match. It was incredible. The champ of the night was a white guy from New Zealand, which I am sure gave the Thais there a huge sense of pride. The hunger, and heart of these guys was amazing, to fight in such conditions for the hope of recognition, or honor is a far cry from the glitz and glamour of the Las Vegas fights we watch everyday.
I spent the rest of the night planning the following day in Chaing Mai, as we had free time. I had a large group coming with me that all bailed when they awoke to their Muy Thai boxing hangovers. It was me and my new friend Renee, who is an adorable girl, with a good sense of her spirituality. If only she wasn't 19. Together we explored the temples of Chaing Mai. Chaing Mai is known for its temples which are interspersed throughout the city. We managed to make it to three separate ones, the names escape me, but there were awe inspiring. All in the name of Buddha. We found a restaurant that had been listed in Lonely Planet, it was next to one of the larger temples, and was easily the best food I have had here yet, and certainly qualifies as one of the best meals of my life. We had a papaya salad, that was spicy, sweet, and covered in peanuts. So many flavors, so incredible. Later in the afternoon me and Renee decided to get adventurous and try a street drink. We ordered watermelon. The woman furiously threw about twelve things into a cup, with each scoop of mystery ingredients mine and Renee's gasps got loader and more intense. When it was finished with a scoop of what appeared to be brown water, the look between us was priceless. Needless to say we each took a sip, and threw it out for fear of Montezuma's first cousin Khan from Thailand taking revenge on us.
The day was finished by boarding our night train back to Chaing Mai, I slept better this time - it may have had something to do with the 80 proof bottle of rum I drank.
My time is running out on here, and I am paying hotel prices.....the tattoo story will have to come later (don't worry Mom, it's not my tattoo.
Who is Skittles?
I have no idea who posted the comment on my last post but squatting toilets are even worse on a moving train when you are drunk...I am a champ
Friday, June 20, 2008
Chaing Mai
I have been pretty bad about writing in my journal. It seemed like a good idea at first, but it is turning into a bit of a responsibility. The last few days have been a whirlwind and I will do my best to catch up.
After leaving the train from Chaing Mai we traveled around the city in the most touristy way possible. We drove from a silk factory, to an umbrella factory, to a silver factory, in which each tour shockingly finished within the confines of an overpriced gift shop. In truth it was fascinating, the talent of these workers is remarkable, and skills like these would bring them great wealth in the US, as opposed to their $10 per day salary here. After the factory tours we headed to an elephant park to watch elephants perform a show. It was a bizarre circus of sorts without the clowns, and cotton candy. The elephants kicked soccer balls into nets, played the harmonica and painted (probably better than me). This was all placed under the banner of animal conservation which I am a bit suspect of. The final activity of the day was visiting the temple of Doi Suthep, which is easily one of the most breathtaking pieces of architecture I have ever seen. It is covered in gold, and believed to house the ashes of Buddha. We tend to have a concept of buddhism in the US as simply a practice, or philosophy, I am beginning to see it more as a religion, just as any religion with its balance of traditions and rules. As amazing as this was the highlight was actually climbing the 300 stairs up and realized the rest of the group was as out of shape as I was, this would prove to be quite reassuring for the next days trek.
We returned to the hotel and agreed to meet in a few hours to discuss the trek for the next three days. I set my alarm on my brand new alarm clock for 10 minutes before the meeting, and when it went off I did what I do best. Hit the snooze button and fell back to sleep. When I woke up an hour later I realized I missed the meeting entirely. The moral of the story is don't use a snooze button for the first time when you actually have somewhere important to be. I was able to gather information from the rest of my group and found out that it was a meeting worth missing. I went back to sleep and caught up on two days of missed rest.
Hilltribe Trek - Day 1
If I had discussed this trip with you before I left you know how much I was dreading my hike through the jungles of Thailand. I was filled with some anticipation and excitement but mostly fear and insecurity. I try to play off hippy Gary, but the truth is Gary can be a real priss, and this trek was starting to sound better in theory than in application. I considered canceling it about a thousand times, but decided that this was a good opportunity to see what I was made of.
I made it through the first day with ease, and I write this entry under a dirty mosquito net on a sleep pad caked in dirt, raised only slightly above the ground, loving every moment of it. We are in a guest house staying with a native tribe. I feel like a bit of an invader, but I know these groups are used to tourists. The land is magnificent, covered in rice fields, and trees and far as the eye can see. The air is fresh, and the only sounds I hear are crickets, dogs and water buffalo. I couldn't even take a picture because it was impossible to capture the sheer beauty of it all. I feel so blessed and fortunate to be here, I am not sure why I deserve it but I am endlessly grateful. The evening was spent playing music on a broken guitar and drinking moonshine made from whiskey.
Hilltribe Trek - Day 2 and 3
Day 2 began the majority of our hike, four hours up and down the mountains, in 100 degree weather with 70 percent humidity. Needless to say at the end I smelled amazing. It was difficult to say the least but I managed to surprise myself, I made it through almost entirely with out a complaint, partly in thanks to my brothers recommendation of rehydration salts. If you ever go hiking those things are magic. We finished our hike with an elephant ride through the jungle - this was easily the scariest part of the trip thus far. I am not a fan of heights, and we sat on a wobbly bench on top of a ten foot elephant, climbing 70 degree angles. We ended up with a new tribe, and walked through a missionary school, the children were adorable and I was only upset that we didn't get to spend more time with them. Our guest house was only slightly cleaner than the last but it didn't matter. I took a bucket shower, which qualified as one of the greatest washing experiences of my life; just me, a bucket of water, a scooper, and a bottle of Dr. Bronners soap. The night was much like the one before, alcohol, and music, but our entire group stayed up; this was my best night here so far. Everyone was filled with a sense of exhaustion and pride, two emotions that are much more fun in the company of those who share them.
I woke up at 5:30, and walked down to the river. It was nice to be alone for the first time in days. The rest of the group woke up a few hours later, and the remainder of the day was riding a bamboo raft down the river, and driving back into town. Tonight we will watch a Thai Boxing match.
P.S. Squat toilets beat seated toilets by a land slide.
I have been pretty bad about writing in my journal. It seemed like a good idea at first, but it is turning into a bit of a responsibility. The last few days have been a whirlwind and I will do my best to catch up.
After leaving the train from Chaing Mai we traveled around the city in the most touristy way possible. We drove from a silk factory, to an umbrella factory, to a silver factory, in which each tour shockingly finished within the confines of an overpriced gift shop. In truth it was fascinating, the talent of these workers is remarkable, and skills like these would bring them great wealth in the US, as opposed to their $10 per day salary here. After the factory tours we headed to an elephant park to watch elephants perform a show. It was a bizarre circus of sorts without the clowns, and cotton candy. The elephants kicked soccer balls into nets, played the harmonica and painted (probably better than me). This was all placed under the banner of animal conservation which I am a bit suspect of. The final activity of the day was visiting the temple of Doi Suthep, which is easily one of the most breathtaking pieces of architecture I have ever seen. It is covered in gold, and believed to house the ashes of Buddha. We tend to have a concept of buddhism in the US as simply a practice, or philosophy, I am beginning to see it more as a religion, just as any religion with its balance of traditions and rules. As amazing as this was the highlight was actually climbing the 300 stairs up and realized the rest of the group was as out of shape as I was, this would prove to be quite reassuring for the next days trek.
We returned to the hotel and agreed to meet in a few hours to discuss the trek for the next three days. I set my alarm on my brand new alarm clock for 10 minutes before the meeting, and when it went off I did what I do best. Hit the snooze button and fell back to sleep. When I woke up an hour later I realized I missed the meeting entirely. The moral of the story is don't use a snooze button for the first time when you actually have somewhere important to be. I was able to gather information from the rest of my group and found out that it was a meeting worth missing. I went back to sleep and caught up on two days of missed rest.
Hilltribe Trek - Day 1
If I had discussed this trip with you before I left you know how much I was dreading my hike through the jungles of Thailand. I was filled with some anticipation and excitement but mostly fear and insecurity. I try to play off hippy Gary, but the truth is Gary can be a real priss, and this trek was starting to sound better in theory than in application. I considered canceling it about a thousand times, but decided that this was a good opportunity to see what I was made of.
I made it through the first day with ease, and I write this entry under a dirty mosquito net on a sleep pad caked in dirt, raised only slightly above the ground, loving every moment of it. We are in a guest house staying with a native tribe. I feel like a bit of an invader, but I know these groups are used to tourists. The land is magnificent, covered in rice fields, and trees and far as the eye can see. The air is fresh, and the only sounds I hear are crickets, dogs and water buffalo. I couldn't even take a picture because it was impossible to capture the sheer beauty of it all. I feel so blessed and fortunate to be here, I am not sure why I deserve it but I am endlessly grateful. The evening was spent playing music on a broken guitar and drinking moonshine made from whiskey.
Hilltribe Trek - Day 2 and 3
Day 2 began the majority of our hike, four hours up and down the mountains, in 100 degree weather with 70 percent humidity. Needless to say at the end I smelled amazing. It was difficult to say the least but I managed to surprise myself, I made it through almost entirely with out a complaint, partly in thanks to my brothers recommendation of rehydration salts. If you ever go hiking those things are magic. We finished our hike with an elephant ride through the jungle - this was easily the scariest part of the trip thus far. I am not a fan of heights, and we sat on a wobbly bench on top of a ten foot elephant, climbing 70 degree angles. We ended up with a new tribe, and walked through a missionary school, the children were adorable and I was only upset that we didn't get to spend more time with them. Our guest house was only slightly cleaner than the last but it didn't matter. I took a bucket shower, which qualified as one of the greatest washing experiences of my life; just me, a bucket of water, a scooper, and a bottle of Dr. Bronners soap. The night was much like the one before, alcohol, and music, but our entire group stayed up; this was my best night here so far. Everyone was filled with a sense of exhaustion and pride, two emotions that are much more fun in the company of those who share them.
I woke up at 5:30, and walked down to the river. It was nice to be alone for the first time in days. The rest of the group woke up a few hours later, and the remainder of the day was riding a bamboo raft down the river, and driving back into town. Tonight we will watch a Thai Boxing match.
P.S. Squat toilets beat seated toilets by a land slide.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Hello again
Bangkok - Trang
I knew it! I was sure that my group leader was hammered when he finally called at 2am last night. For most this would be a nuisance but for me, it was merely a brother in arms.
We were scheduled to meet at 10 am and considering I woke up at 6 am this gave me a large chunk of free-time. I explored the city a bit, but much of it was closed at that hour. I am apparently lodging in the garage district as every shop near the hotel is a garage, or some sort of garage fusion; garage/music shop, garage/souvenir shop, and the ever so suspect garage/restaurant.
I returned to my hotel for the complimentary breakfast and managed to accidentally ingest my first piece of pork. So much for the kosher meal on the flight.
At 10 am I made my way to reception where me and the group leader, had agreed to meet. At 10:10 (yes I am that impatient) I had the front desk call his room. On the other line was a freshly woken man under the spell of what I suspected was a hangover. He made his way down 15 minutes later, and if I needed anymore confirmation of my suspicions, the air of booze that escaped with every word he spoke was all the evidence I needed. AJ as he is called, which I suspect is special for westerners as there is neither an A or a J in the thai alphabet, was as cool and down to earth as I could have hoped. He looked 10 years below his age of 37, and was Thai by many generations. We chatted for a few minutes, filled out paper work, and he assured me that the trek was an easy one, and I had nothing to fear.
Sleeper train to Chaing Mai
I write this en route to Chaing Mai. It will be a twelve hour overnight trip by train. While I was initially suspect of the getting a good nights sleep the bed was surprisingly comfortable.
Before boarding the train the day was spent on a long tail boat exploring the canals of Bangkok. The city is frequently described as the Venice of the East but the parallels begin and end at the canals that run through the two cities. We went through a residential area in which mansions lay next to shantys, while I had seen contrast of wealth in New York before I had never seen it quite like this. If we think we know of poverty in the US, we truly have no sense.
Morning
We arrived in Chain Mai, and I suspect this will be the last I write for the next several days. We will be hiking through the hilltribes of Thailand for the next three days.
I knew it! I was sure that my group leader was hammered when he finally called at 2am last night. For most this would be a nuisance but for me, it was merely a brother in arms.
We were scheduled to meet at 10 am and considering I woke up at 6 am this gave me a large chunk of free-time. I explored the city a bit, but much of it was closed at that hour. I am apparently lodging in the garage district as every shop near the hotel is a garage, or some sort of garage fusion; garage/music shop, garage/souvenir shop, and the ever so suspect garage/restaurant.
I returned to my hotel for the complimentary breakfast and managed to accidentally ingest my first piece of pork. So much for the kosher meal on the flight.
At 10 am I made my way to reception where me and the group leader, had agreed to meet. At 10:10 (yes I am that impatient) I had the front desk call his room. On the other line was a freshly woken man under the spell of what I suspected was a hangover. He made his way down 15 minutes later, and if I needed anymore confirmation of my suspicions, the air of booze that escaped with every word he spoke was all the evidence I needed. AJ as he is called, which I suspect is special for westerners as there is neither an A or a J in the thai alphabet, was as cool and down to earth as I could have hoped. He looked 10 years below his age of 37, and was Thai by many generations. We chatted for a few minutes, filled out paper work, and he assured me that the trek was an easy one, and I had nothing to fear.
Sleeper train to Chaing Mai
I write this en route to Chaing Mai. It will be a twelve hour overnight trip by train. While I was initially suspect of the getting a good nights sleep the bed was surprisingly comfortable.
Before boarding the train the day was spent on a long tail boat exploring the canals of Bangkok. The city is frequently described as the Venice of the East but the parallels begin and end at the canals that run through the two cities. We went through a residential area in which mansions lay next to shantys, while I had seen contrast of wealth in New York before I had never seen it quite like this. If we think we know of poverty in the US, we truly have no sense.
Morning
We arrived in Chain Mai, and I suspect this will be the last I write for the next several days. We will be hiking through the hilltribes of Thailand for the next three days.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
First few days
Check In
I thought Japan was technologically advanced. This is in direct contrast to Japan Airlines no automated check-in.
By luck I fortunately secured the last window seat, after waiting on line for an hour. This is what happens when you don't listen to my Israeli cousins who firmly believe that arriving at the airport twelve minutes before departure is fine, and just because the gate doors may hit you in the ass as you are entering the plane shouldn't deter you from it.
Flight
I am seated next to a pleasant man. We exchange nods and smiles, aside from some shared quips about the broken video system this will be the extent of our fourteen hour relationship. He is not clearly Japanese, I suspect Philipino, but he is clearly an immigrant with both American, and Asian habits.
I was reluctant to spend fourteen hours not knowing whether or not I could eat the plane food, so I ordered the kosher meal. I always greet the kosher meal with levels of both enthusiasm and skepticism. Enthusiasm, because the company that makes the meals bares the name of my extnded family, Borentstein Caterers. The company was started by my great-grandmothers brothers. This has always provide an odd sense of pride for my family. Skepticism because by nature kosher is never as good as non-kosher. My skepticism was well founced, the meal included a mix of pickles, olives and a strange and cold poultry like meet which can only be described as "tastes like chicken". I was elated when the flight attendant returned with a hot dish, my excitment dissapted when I opened it to reveal a large hunk of undercooked beef. Oh well - this is why I packed powerbars.
Somewhere over the pacific
I am hot. There is no above head airconditioners here. I am annoyed. I am reminded that I will be living in 100 degree weather with 70% humidity for the next five weeks. I am comforted by that.
Tokyo en route to Bangkok
Landed in Tokyo. It is alot like JFK barring some suntle differences; namely, squat toilets and sake at the duty free.
Bangkok- Trang Hotel
I have arrived at my hotel, my group has left to get food and I a left with my own thoughts. Bangkok lacks the serenity that I had expected from Thailand. I knew this was an intense city but there is a longing and a fear that has come over me - secretly I know this is a good thing. I read my book, unpack, repack, unpack and repack again. I wait for my group leader. I am hesitant to go to bed as I lack security or grounding in this strange city, and anyone that knows me knows I like security. I expected a share room, but I have the room to myself, and for the first time in a long time I would perfer company over privacy.
Bangkok - Internet Cafe
I can feel the jet lag coming on, I barely slept last night, and I am going to have to fight through it today. I went exploring for an internet cafe only to be approached every step of the way with salesmen. I could have learned alot from these guys while working at Greenpeace. The city has a smell and an energy, it is both frightening and invigorating at the same time. I am glad I am here, but I am scared shitless.
I thought Japan was technologically advanced. This is in direct contrast to Japan Airlines no automated check-in.
By luck I fortunately secured the last window seat, after waiting on line for an hour. This is what happens when you don't listen to my Israeli cousins who firmly believe that arriving at the airport twelve minutes before departure is fine, and just because the gate doors may hit you in the ass as you are entering the plane shouldn't deter you from it.
Flight
I am seated next to a pleasant man. We exchange nods and smiles, aside from some shared quips about the broken video system this will be the extent of our fourteen hour relationship. He is not clearly Japanese, I suspect Philipino, but he is clearly an immigrant with both American, and Asian habits.
I was reluctant to spend fourteen hours not knowing whether or not I could eat the plane food, so I ordered the kosher meal. I always greet the kosher meal with levels of both enthusiasm and skepticism. Enthusiasm, because the company that makes the meals bares the name of my extnded family, Borentstein Caterers. The company was started by my great-grandmothers brothers. This has always provide an odd sense of pride for my family. Skepticism because by nature kosher is never as good as non-kosher. My skepticism was well founced, the meal included a mix of pickles, olives and a strange and cold poultry like meet which can only be described as "tastes like chicken". I was elated when the flight attendant returned with a hot dish, my excitment dissapted when I opened it to reveal a large hunk of undercooked beef. Oh well - this is why I packed powerbars.
Somewhere over the pacific
I am hot. There is no above head airconditioners here. I am annoyed. I am reminded that I will be living in 100 degree weather with 70% humidity for the next five weeks. I am comforted by that.
Tokyo en route to Bangkok
Landed in Tokyo. It is alot like JFK barring some suntle differences; namely, squat toilets and sake at the duty free.
Bangkok- Trang Hotel
I have arrived at my hotel, my group has left to get food and I a left with my own thoughts. Bangkok lacks the serenity that I had expected from Thailand. I knew this was an intense city but there is a longing and a fear that has come over me - secretly I know this is a good thing. I read my book, unpack, repack, unpack and repack again. I wait for my group leader. I am hesitant to go to bed as I lack security or grounding in this strange city, and anyone that knows me knows I like security. I expected a share room, but I have the room to myself, and for the first time in a long time I would perfer company over privacy.
Bangkok - Internet Cafe
I can feel the jet lag coming on, I barely slept last night, and I am going to have to fight through it today. I went exploring for an internet cafe only to be approached every step of the way with salesmen. I could have learned alot from these guys while working at Greenpeace. The city has a smell and an energy, it is both frightening and invigorating at the same time. I am glad I am here, but I am scared shitless.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
The Start of Something...
Ok - so my life, its coming to this bizarre point of insanity. I leave for Thailand this Saturday. It sounded very cool when I told people. It made me seem deep and exotic, which for me was a nice change of pace because usually I am shallow and typical. Then suddenly this morning I realized - holy shit I am actually going to Thailand on Saturday....not I am getting drunk this Saturday, not I am going to see a movie, or sleeping late this Saturday, but I am going to fucking Thailand this Saturday. I am going to be in Bangkok where someone, at some point, may show me a menu with chicken, beef, and dog. I mean Dog Pad Thai....really? Needless to say I am a little overwhelmed. I am going to blog here, or at least try to. This is definitely the start of something...
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